What to pour with Australian food

There are three great truths about Australian food and drink right now. First: we finally stopped apologising for having a cuisine. Second: the best produce in the world grows within a three-hour drive of any Australian capital city, and half the time we still order the frozen dumplings. Third: what goes with a Sunday roast in Brisbane is not the same thing that goes with a Sunday roast in Hobart, and that is the whole point.

This is the pairing room built for the country the site lives in. Roast lamb with a McLaren Vale grenache. A barbecue with a can of West End. Prawns on the boat with a Margaret River chardonnay. Sunday pavlova with a late-harvest riesling. The Yarra Valley pinot with a duck you roasted yourself.

Here is the short version. If you are cooking something slow, pour shiraz. If you are cooking something fast, pour a sparkling. If you are at the beach, drink beer. If you are at a dinner party, start with a gin and tonic and finish with something sweet from Rutherglen. If in doubt, order a Sunday roast and a grenache, and stop reading food blogs.

But if you want the long version, here it is.

Why Australian food is harder to pair than you think

The modern Australian plate borrows from everywhere: a Mediterranean base with South-East Asian pantry items, Italian technique, Chinese wok fire, an Indigenous herb drawer we are finally learning how to use properly. A good Australian menu on a good Australian Saturday night might run from fish tacos to miso eggplant to pork belly with apple slaw, and the bottle needs to keep up.

That is why we default to three rules. One: chase the sauce, not the protein. A roast chicken with a mustard cream is a white wine dish; a roast chicken with a smoked paprika rub wants a light red. Two: let the grill do the choosing. Barbecue sugar and char love a shiraz or a grenache; grilled seafood loves a semillon. Three: temperature matters more than varietal. Thirty-five-degree summer Sunday? Everything goes cold, even the red.

The cocktails that go with this food

Summer-forward, aperitivo-heavy, low ABV where possible. These are the pours we trust for an Australian lunch that goes long.

The food it goes with

Our favourite Australian-first recipes to build a menu around. Every one has a bottle match.

The bottles worth buying

Six Australian-leaning bottles that should live on your shelf. Grenache for slow meat, gin for the afternoon, ginger beer for the mule.

The Australian connection

We have spent the last fifty years importing the world’s cuisines and then adapting them to Australian produce and Australian weather. Chinese food in Australia is not Chinese food in China. Italian food in Australia is not Italian food in Italy. It is what the migrants cooked with what they could find in a Coles on a Wednesday night. That is the Australian cuisine. And that is why nothing that sits on an Australian shelf works perfectly — because the dish changes every year, and the bottle has to change with it.

But there are anchors. A good grenache from McLaren Vale will hold up to a slow-cooked anything. A riesling from Eden Valley will save a Friday-night curry. A McLaren Vale shiraz will drag a barbecue into the evening. An Australian sparkling will work with every entree you will ever put on a table in this country. And an Australian gin with a proper tonic will get you through three courses of anything you put in front of it.

The Australian Sunday menu

The drinks

The food

  • Roast pumpkin dip and lavosh
  • Sunday roast chicken
  • Charred carrots with honey and thyme
  • Pavlova with passionfruit curd

The pairing quick rules

If you are serving lamb, pour grenache or shiraz. If you are serving fish, pour a cool-climate chardonnay or an Adelaide Hills sauvignon blanc. If you are serving pork, pour an off-dry riesling from Eden or Clare. If you are serving barbecue, crack a beer, and if you really must have wine, a chilled grenache beats a warm shiraz every time. If you are serving anything sweet, go to Rutherglen.